THE PRINCE BONAPARTE

It’s rare to find a pub as high-ceilinged, gilded, spacious and gracious as the venerable Bonaparte, a fixture on the Bayswater gastropub scene. Following some recent TLC, it’s resplendent with mismatched chandeliers, a fresh lick of paint and some nouveau-18th-century wallpaper featuring blowsy, dark-velour roses creeping up one wall.

The horseshoe bar in the centre of the pub is like a booze-lined embrace, and makes for surprisingly quick service, even when it’s busy. And at weekends the Bonaparte is full to burst, resembling a central post-work pub more than a West London local – it’s something about the gaggles of Antipodeans, roar of cheery chatter, and men working the smart-casual look. Crowds throng the pavement outside for a convivial fag and the atmosphere is that of a noisy party. As well as beers aplenty, there’s a good choice of wines by the glass or bottle.

There’s a completely different vibe during the week or in the afternoons, when it comes into its own as a place to read the paper at one of the large wooden tables. In winter, nestle next to the large open fire and indulge in some hair of the dog. The huge windows make it feel perpetually airy, and make for a good view of the street if your companions get boring.

The ‘gastro’ bit happens at the back of the righthand-side of the bar, with an open kitchen busily supplying tables with a seasonal array of dishes.

It’s pub grub with bells on: fill your belly with delights such as Spanish charcuterie with caper berries, olives, almonds and glazed tomatoes, steak and triple-cooked chips, and scallops, cauliflower puree, pousse, lemon and thyme oil.