PARADISE by way of Kensal Green

Whimsical, theatrical chaos reigns supreme at this atmospheric restored 19th-century boozer. The name comes from a line in a GK Chesterton poem, referring to the area’s local cemetery, and at first glance it looks as if some of the graveside dwellers have popped in to get the skinny on 21st-century life – a huge seven-foot angel statue graces the main bar and cheeky cherubs look on as a stylish, well-off crowd drinks good wines, cocktails and ever popular pints of Spitfire.

Limewashed pale walls, sanded wooden floors and a high corniced ceiling are the name of the game in the back dining room, where roman busts and stern-looking, gilt framed portraits glower down on diners; 18th-century chandeliers and candles housed in delicate tea cups provide subdued lighting; and low key chatter evokes the air of a huge dinner party in a glamorous old country pile. Outside is a quirky smoking courtyard adorned with plants and a birdcage. The food here is staunchly British. Venison, pheasant and Gloucester Old Spot pork chops are on the main menu and British nursery delights like Eton mess, sticky toffee pudding or a crumble provide the desserts.

Hidden nooks behind staircases and down corridors further the country house party feel – there’s a library room full of antique books and Chesterfields, a private dining room full of elaborate red chairs straight out of a French chateau, and a Mediterranean style roof terrace. The good food and cabinet-of-wonders décor is enough to keep most folks happy, but they ramp it up a notch with a number of good-time nights including comedy, burlesque, and old fashioned knees ups.